One of my favorite Italian dishes is Lasagna - it’s the ultimate comfort food!  That’s why at my restaurant Mama Mia’s, we make it fresh and offer a daily Lasagna del Giorno (only $7 on Monday’s lunch Craving Menu).

In today’s FoodDay, Grant Butler wrote a great feature story that put the spotlight on this tasty, versatile delight.  Better yet, he asked me to share my Lasagna Bolognese recipe and five tips to improve your lasagna - trust me, they’ll come in handy.

Read Butler’s article here, and see the recipe I offered up below.

There are an endless number of combinations for lasagna.   What are some of your favorite combos?  I’m always looking to experiment with new ingredients…

Super ‘Hummus’ Bowl

It’s Super Bowl weekend, which means we can look forward to a snack and football filled Sunday.  For those of you hosting parties and haven’t thought about the menu just yet…don’t worry, you’re not alone.

Here’s the recipe for my hummus dip, which I love to serve at parties. It’s a cheap, easy to whip up and is very versatile – add as much garlic, lemon or spice as you please. You can make it healthier by dipping with veggies or add the crunch by toasting your own pita bread.

For this occasion, let’s call it the Super Hummus Bowl.

You’ll need:

2 (15-ounce) cans of garbanzo beans drained and rinsed.

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon of cold water

5 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons)

2/3 cup lemon juice (about 4 medium lemons)

2 1/2 teaspoons of kosher salt

1 1/3cup of tahini (sesame paste) stirred well

2 teaspoons ground cumin

Warmed pita bread or sliced veggies

Optional –

4 Kalamata or other black olives

1 tablespoon sambal oelek (spicy chile paste)

What to do:

1. Place the garbanzo beans, water, garlic, lemon juice, salt, tahini, and cumin in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade or in a blender. Process until smooth, at least 3 minutes. You may have to stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Alternatively, you can purée the ingredients with an immersion blender. Taste and add additional salt or lemon juice if desired.

2. To serve, spoon the hummus onto individual plates or onto a medium dinner place spreading it in an even layer to the rim. Spoon the chile paste in the center and top with the olives, if using. Arrange pita wedges or vegetables around the plate. For best flavor allow hummus to come to room temperature before serving.  Hummus can be refrigerated in an airtight container for several days, although I bet for this crowd, there won’t be any leftovers.

Enjoy!

It’s time to trade in your sandals and break out the scarves, sweaters and cozy slippers in the Pacific Northwest; Fall is here!  That also means it’s time welcome one of my favorite soups - Butternut Squash & Apple Soup.   The light, silky texture makes this soup an elegant way to start a meal and it’s a perfect way to kick off the fall season when these ingredients are in season and most affordable.

A beautiful, sunny crisp day like today is calling for a yummy cup of soup.  We get more requests for this soup at Mother’s than any other, so I hope you enjoy it!

What you’ll need:

• 5 lbs butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced (About 12 cups. See Love note 1)
• 1 1/2 pounds (about 3 large) Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced (About 4 cups. See Love Note 2)
• 1 (1-inch) piece cinnamon stick
• 1/2 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
• 51/2 cups Vegetable Stock, Chicken Stock or canned low-sodium broth
• 1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup real maple syrup (any grade will do)
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (Love Note 3)
• 4 cups (1 quart) half-and-half
• 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup unsweetened whipped cream, crème fraîche, or mascarpone, for garnish (optional)

What to do:

1. In a large (8- to 10-quart), heavy stockpot, combine the squash, apples, cinnamon stick, ginger and stock (Love Note 4).  Bring to a boil over high heat.  Lower to a simmer and cook, covered, until the squash and apples are very soft, about 30 - 40 minutes.  (Don’t undercook the vegetables, or you won’t have a silky soup.)
2. Remove the pot from the heat and add the butter, maple syrup, nutmeg, half-and-half, and salt and pepper, and purée until smooth with an immersion blender in batches in a blender or food processor, or with a food mill.
3. Pass the puréed soup through a fine-mesh strainer set over another clean pot, pressing on the vegetable solids to extract as much liquid as possible.   Discard the solids.
4. Return the pot to the stove and bring the soup to a boil over medium heat, stirrign now and then.  Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes to meld the flavors.  Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
5. Ladle into bowls and serve topped with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, crème fraîche or mascarpone, if desired.

Love Notes:

1. To prepare the squash, cut in half widthwise, place the flat end on a cutting board and remove the peel with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds.
2. To prepare the apples, peel with a vegetable peeler.  Stand each apple stem end up and cut into quarters to expose the core, keeping as close to it as possible. (You can also use an apple corer.)  Dice the quarters and discard the core.
3. Nutmegs are large when whole, making them easy to hold while you grate them on a fine, rasp-style grater.  Or buy a nutmeg grinder, which grates the nutmeg at the turn of the handle and stores the whole nutmeg, too.
4. Add only half the amount of liquid called for and then check the consistency of the soup.  If it looks like adding all the liquid might make the soup water, don’t add it.

*Serves 6 (2 cups per serving).  Makes about 3 quarts.

This weekend is Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, so I thought it was fitting to share a very special family recipe perfect for the holiday - Beef Brisket. Beef brisket is a cut of meat taken from the breast or lower chest of the animal that when slow cooked is a delicious hearty meal.  This brisket is just like my mom used to make - literally!  The only change I’ve made to her recipe is substituting veal stock for water to give the dish a little more flavor.  Although there are hundreds of recipes for brisket, I never stray from this one.  To me, it is and will always be the best.

Party note: Braised brisket is perfect for holidays or parties because it reheats so well.  You can cook it and slice it a day ahead without the complication of guests and hosting duties, then rewarm it in the oven for the main event. Leftover beef brisket also makes for excellent sandwiches.  Just add some horseradish to mayonnaise, smear it on some rye or rustic French bread, top with lettuce tomato and red onion and you have lunch for the family.

Ingredients:

1 whole beef brisket - about 10 lbs. (Love note 1)

2 tablespoons plus two teaspoons kosher salt (divided)

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (divided)

1 1/2 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika (divided)

1/3 cup vegetable oil

10 medium yellow onions, finely diced (about 10 cups)

2 quarts (8 cups) Veal Stock, Beef stock, or canned low-sodium beef broth

4 pounds (about 12) red potatoes, with skins

Directions:

1.  Using a long, sharp knife, trim the excess fat from the brisket to about 1/8 inch.  Season evenly and all over the meat with 2 tablespoons of the salt, 1 table spoon of the pepper (use less salt if using canned broth), and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the paprika.

2. Heat the oven to 350ºF, and place a rack in the enter.  Place a Dutch oven or deep roasting pan over high heat for several minutes (make sure the pan is large enough to fit the brisket lying down).  You may need to cut the meat to fit into the pan.  If so, be sure to cut it at the obvious, natural seam, which separates the fattier deckle from the lean first cut. This will make it easier to cut in the right direction for serving (Love Note 2).  When hot, add the oil and heat until shimmering.  Add the brisket and brown for about 3 to 4 minutes more.  Remove from the pan and set aside on a baking sheet or large pan.

3. Reduce heat to med-high and add diced onions to the pan.  Sauté until they start to brown slightly.  Lower heat to medium and continue to cook until they are very soft and slightly brown - about 15 minutes.

4.  Return the brisket to the pan with the onions and pour in enough stock to barely cover the meat (may need more or less depending on size of brisket and dimensions of the pot).  Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, cover the pan tightly with either aluminum foil or a lid, and place in the oven.

5. While the brisket is cooking, cut the potatoes into 1 inch chunks.  Keep them in cold water until ready to use.

6. After brisket has cooked for 1 1/2 hours, drain the potatoes in a colander and place in a large own.  Toss the potatoes with the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons pepper, and 2 teaspoons paprika.

7. Remove the lid from the brisket and flip the meat so the tip is now the botom and submerged in the cooking liquid.  Arrange the potatoes around the meat, making sure that the most are submerged in the liquid rather than on top of the meat.  Cover the pan and return it to the oven for another 45 minutes.

8.  Remove the cover from the pan (if a lot of the meat is above the liquid, then throw a piece of aluminum foil on top of it) and continue to cook until the potatoes are fork-tender - meaning the fork should like in and out without resistance), some of the liquid has reduced, and the brisket is done, about another 45 minutes.  To check the doneness of the brisket, pierce it with a two-pronged fork.  If the meat falls away and back into the pan, it is done.  If meat offers resistance or clings to the fork, return to the oven and continue to cook for another 30 minutes (or until done, checking occasionally).

9. Remove the pan from the oven.  Using a wide spatula or tongs, lift the brisket out and place it on a cutting board.  Use a slotted spoon or spider to lift the potatoes out of the liquid and transfer to a serving bowl.  Cover with foil to keep the potatoes warm while you cut the brisket.

10.  Using a thin, sharp slicing knife, cut the brisket against the grain (Love Note 2), into 1/4 inch thick slices. The grain shifts from one direction in the thinner flat end to a slightly different direction in the thicker, fattier point end.  Just keep an eye on the meat and shift the angle of your knife to accommodate.  If you had to cut the meat to fit in the pan, you can slice the sections separately, making sure everyone gets a little of each.) Place the slices on a serving platter.  Pour a small amount of gravy onto the meat and the rest into a gravy boat and pass with potatoes and meat.

Love Notes:

1) A whole brisket is a really large piece of meat, so plan ahead and order in advance from your meat counter.   Brisket cuts go by several different names: First cut, second cut, point, flat round, and deckle.  The whole brisket is two muscles connected by a layer of fat and connective tissue that you can trim off after cooking (leave some of it on during the cooking for added flavor).  The outer one is smaller, fattier and has a pointed end; the inner one is leaner, flatter and has a squared off end.  Its extra fat and untidy appearance make the outer muscle less desirable (even though it’s more flavorful), so it goes by either point cut or second cut.  The tidy inner muscle usually goes by or flat cut or first cut.  I suggest cooking the whole brisket - it’s cheaper by the pound and gives you the best of both worlds.  IF you really don’t want to cook that much meat, look for a cut labeled ‘front cut,’ which is half of a brisket that includes both the outer and inner muscles.

2) ALWAYS cut meat across the grain, regardless of whether you’re carving a turkey or slicing a brisket…This shortens the muscle strands, which makes the meat easier to chew and seem more tender.

During my travels to Morocco, I was inspired by the country’s love for home cooked meals and communal dining.  If there’s a national dish of Morocco, it’s this Moroccan Couscous.  Families each have their own take on this classic dish, varying it by adding their own unique herb and spice mixtures.  Many people don’t realize that couscous is actually the name of a stew as well as the tiny grain-like pasta on top of which it’s served. So for those of you having a dinner party this weekend, I thought I’d offer up this recipe as it’s sure to wow them with flavor and get the conversation going.

Moroccan Couscous recipe from Mother’s Best (serves 8)

Ingredients:

Stew:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)
1 (14-ounce) can whole tomatoes, with their juice
2 lamb shanks (about 1 ½ pounds)
1 (3 ½ pound) roasting chicken, left whole (it will fall apart on its own, so you don’t have to cut it up)
1 cup dried garbanzo beans, soaked overnight (preferable), or 2 15-ounce cans garbanzo beans (Love Note 1)
1-1 ½ gallons (4-6 quarts) chicken stock, water, or a mix of the two
1 small head green cabbage, cut into 2-inch wedges or eighths with 1/8 inch core left on to hold it together (Love Note 2)
2 large carrots, peeled and cut in half widthwise, then quartered if large
1 turnips, peeled and quartered
2 leeks (white and light green parts, cut in half lengthwise with a tiny amount of root left on to help them hold together)
2 zucchinis, partially peeled (so it looks striped) and cut in half widthwise
2 yellow summer squash partially peeled (so it looks striped) and cut in half widthwise
2 tablespoons kosher salt (divided)
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (divided)

Couscous:
6 cups cous cous cooking liquid
2 cups vegetable stock, chicken stock, or low-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 cups couscous (not pearl or Israeli couscous)
Harissa (recipe follows, optional; Love Note 3)

Instructions:

1. Place a large (8 to 10-quart) soup pot over medium-high heat for several minutes. When hot, add the oil and the onions. Lower heat to medium-high and sauté until very soft, but with no color (lower heat if necessary), about 10 minutes Add tomatoes, squishing them (with clean) hands as they are added, and simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

2. Add lamb, whole chicken and soaked, drained garbanzo beans (if using canned, add them later with the zucchini and yellow squash).  Add just enough of the chicken stock or water to cover (just enough liquid to barely cover the chicken.  If your pot requires more than 1 ½ gallons liquid, it’s too big for the job.  Look for something smaller) and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower heat to a simmer, add 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper and stir to incorporate. Simmer, partially covered, for one hour, skimming scum as it rises to the top.

3. Add the cabbage, carrots, turnips and leeks (tuck vegetables under and between the lamb and chicken, making sure they’re submerged). Season with another 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper and stir a bit to combine. Turn up the heat and return to a boil.  Lower heat, partially cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.

4. Using two spatulas, lift out the chicken, trying to keep it together (it makes getting it out easier) and the leeks, keeping them separate.

5. Add the zucchini and yellow squash to the stew (and garbanzos if using canned instead of dried), and continue to simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes more, or until lamb offers no resistance when pierced with a fork.

6. Remove the zucchini, squash and lamb from stew and set aside until ready to serve.

Prepare couscous while the squash cooks:

1. Ladle out 6 cups of the couscous broth into a medium (6- 8-quart) saucepan.   (Use a 1-cup ladle so ou won’t have to ladle into a measuring cup.)  Add 2 cups vegetable stock (so now you have 8 cups of liquid in the saucepan) and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

2. Add 1 tablespoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper and couscous and quickly stir to combine and remove all lumps. Turn off the heat, cover, and let stand 10 minutes until the liquid is absorbed (Do not take lid off before 10 minutes, or the precious steam needed to cook the cous cous will escape). Fluff with a fork before serving.

To serve:

1. Divide couscous among plates and top with a piece of zucchini, yellow squash, cabbage, carrot, leek, a chunk of chicken, chunk of lamb, and a ladle of cooking liquid with garbanzo beans. Or pass a platter of the meat and vegetables (I like to have separate platters for each), a serving bowl of couscous topped with a ladle or two of the stew cooking liquid, and a bowl of the cooking liquid with the chickpeas around the table and let diners serve themselves.

2. Mix some of the stew’s cooking liquid with harissa (I tablespoon harissa to every cup of cooking liquid), place in a small bowl and pass around with the platter of meat and vegetables.

Love Notes
1. I prefer dry garbanzos for this recipe because they have more flavor than canned.  In addition, the stew has to cook a long time anyway, so you might as well be cooking the dried garbanzo beans, which are much cheaper, while you’re at it.  Before soaking, check the beans for pebbles and debris and rinse well. Place in a large bowl or pot, cover with an inch of water and soak overnight.
2. The best way to cut the cabbage without it falling apart in the stew is: cut it in half, then cut each half in half (quarters).  Cut each quarter in half (eighths).  Trim out most of the core (leaving an 1/8th inch), leaving just enough of it intact so it holds the piece of cabbage together during cooking.
3. Harissa is a spicy Moroccan sauce made with hot chiles, garlic, cumin and coriander. With increasing interest in Moroccan cuisine, it has become easier to find it at well-stocked grocery stores or gourmet shops, but the canned stuff is nothing like the fresh harissa found in the open-air market in north Africa. I highly recommend making your own.  It keeps indefinitely in the freezer and for up to a month in the refrigerator.  Harissa is never served straight with a cous cous.  A spoonful of it is mixed with a cup of the cous cous stew liquid and passed at the table as a condiment.

Harrisa (makes 2 cups)

Ingredients:

2 ounces (1 cup) small dry red peppers (such as chiles de arbol or guajillo peppers)
1 ½ teaspoons caraway seeds
1 teaspoons cumin seeds (or use ground cumin)
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
4 cloves garlic (2 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
5-6 tablespoons pepper soaking liquid

Instructions:

1. In a small (2- to 3-quart) saucepan, bring a pot of water to a boil. Remove from the heat. Stir in the chile peppers, cover, and let sit for 1 hour.

2. While the peppers are soaking, toast the spices. Heat a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the caraway seeds and toast, stirring occasionally (and watching vigilantly so they don’t burn), until fragrant and lightly browned. Remove and repeat with the cumin seeds and coriander seeds. Grind the toasted spices in a spice grinder (such as a blade coffee grinder) until very fine.

3. Drain the peppers, reserving the soaking liquid. Remove and discard the stems from the peppers and place peppers, spices, garlic, salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.  Puree the peppers.  This can take a bit of time, and you will need to alternately pulse and leave the machine running (for as long as 1-2 minutes), being sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Use some of the soaking liquid, if necessary, to get things started.

5. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil through the feed tube.

6. Pour into a glass jar or other container and refrigerate for up to two weeks.  You can also freeze it in small portions either in an ice cube tray or in small blobs on a parchment-lined baking sheet (once frozen, remove to a zip-top freezer bag).

Love Note
The flavor of freshly ground whole spices is 100 percent better than store-bought pre-ground spices which can cost a fortune, mainly because of packaging. This includes pepper, which is why my recipes always specify freshly ground pepper.  It’s better to buy spices in the bulk section of your supermarket or health food store and grind them at home, using a coffee grinder reserved for this purpose.  Just be sure to wipe it out with a moist towel and let it dry before using. As for toasting spices, it has pretty much the same effect it does for coffee beans – it brings out the fullness of their aromas and flavors

Mother’s Bistro & Bar and Mama Mia Trattoria are huge supporters of equal rights for all.  This year, we’re celebrating gay pride and basic rights for all by donating 10% of all “ball” dish sales on June 13 and 14th (Pride weekend) to Basic Rights Oregon.  Dishes included are our Matzo Ball Soup and Lion’s Head Stew (pork meatballs with rice noodles) at Mother’s Bistro & Bar and the Meatball Hero (lunch) and Linguini and Meatballs (dinner) at Mama Mia Trattoria.

It’s a fun promotion for a great organization and will run through Sunday, June 14th.  Please stop in and try some of Portland’s best balls…it’s going to a great cause!  Happy Pride!

To help you get in the spirit, here’s a recipe for “Lion’s Head” Meatball Stew from Ellen Chou, our current Mom of the Month:

‘LION’S HEAD’ MEATBALL STEW
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A MEAL

1 pound ground pork
2 stalks green onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon white pepper
Plain vegetable oil for pan-frying
1 head of Chinese cabbage (about 1 pound)
1 bunch dried cellophane noodles

In a bowl, combine the ground pork, chopped green onions, soy sauce and white pepper. Mix well. Form meatballs using about 3 heaping tablespoons of meat. Brown the meatballs in oil in a pan. You don’t have to cook them all the way through. Place the meatballs in a soup pot or Dutch oven. Once all the meatballs are browned, add enough water to the pot just to cover the meatballs. Bring to a boil and then turn the pot down to medium low and let simmer for about 1 hour, or until the flavor of the broth has developed.

Meanwhile, cut the cabbage leaves into 1 ½-inch (approximately) squares. Add the cabbage to the pot, adding a touch of water if necessary, and let it cook down. The cabbage will shrink in size once tender. About 10 minutes before taking the pot off the stove, add the cellophane noodles to the pot to cook. Taste for seasoning. If necessary, add a touch of salt. Serve as part of a meal with rice.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Chicken, jack cheese and chipotle peppers give this dish plenty of Southwest kick. If you like the smoky-spicy flavor of the spices but want to avoid the extra fat in the sour cream garnish, just add a teaspoon of the sauce from canned chipotles en adobo to the macaroni and cheese itself and skip the garnish altogether.

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for cooking pasta
1 pound fusilli (corkscrew), rotini, or other pasta, preferably de Cecco brand
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or canola oil
1 cup finely diced yellow onions (about 1 medium onion)
¼ cup finely chopped fresh jalapeños, stem and seeds removed
1 cup finely diced bell peppers (preferably a mixture of green and red)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups heavy cream
2 cups firmly packed shredded Monterey jack or pepper jack cheese (about ½ pound)
1 cup cooked shredded or diced chicken (about 1 chicken breast)

For garnish:
½ cup sour cream
¼ teaspoon minced chipotle chile (from canned chipotles en adobo)
½ cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green part, for garnish

1. Bring a large (6- to 8-quart) pot of water to a boil. Salt generously (it should taste like the sea). Stir in pasta and cook according to package directions. Drain (don’t rinse, or you’ll rinse away starches that will help thicken the sauce) and return to the empty pot.

2. Meanwhile, place a large (12- to 14-inch) sauté pan over high heat for several minutes. When hot, add butter, onions and bell peppers and jalapeños and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes.

3. Reduce heat to medium-high and add heavy cream. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium and simmer until cream is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

4. Add cheese and chicken. Stir well and cook over medium-high heat until the cheese has melted and the mixture is thickened, about 3 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper.

5. Stir the sauce into the cooked and drained pasta in the pot. Place over medium heat and simmer 1 to 2 minutes to thicken the sauce and allow pasta to absorb the flavors, stirring now and then. If too thick, adjust the consistency with a little more cream.

6. In a small bowl, mix together the sour cream and minced chipotle. Serve macaroni and cheese in individual bowls topped with a dollop of the chipotle sour cream and a sprinkle of sliced green onions.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

This is by far the most popular dish on our menu at Mother’s Bistro & Bar, and it typifies what we do best – slow-cooked foods made with the best possible ingredients. Braised dishes usually include browned meat, sautéed aromatic vegetables, and a flavorful cooking liquid. I like to braise in the oven because the heat is indirect, so foods cook more evenly and there’s less chance of a hot spot in the pan scorching the food. Like most braised dishes, pot roast freezes and reheats well, so if you want leftovers, double or triple the recipe. Mother’s Smashers are a great foil for the rich, deep flavors of the gravy.

4 pounds beef chuck, tied if desired
3 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 medium yellow onions, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
½ pound (about 4) carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)
3 ribs celery (2 cups), coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic
3/4 cup tomato purée
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup dry red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel or Côtes du Rhône
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs thyme and 3 sprigs parsley)
6 to 10 cups beef or veal stock (recipe follow), or canned low-sodium beef broth

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a sharp knife, trim off any excess fat or gristle from the meat. Season with salt and pepper (you might need to use less salt if you’re using canned broth, which already has salt).

2. Choose a Dutch oven or stockpot just large enough to hold the meat in a single layer (too big and you’ll need too much liquid, which will dilute the flavors of the dish. Too small and the meat won’t cook evenly). Place the pan over high heat for several minutes until hot. (You need a very hot pan to brown, caramelize, and develop flavor in the meat, otherwise it will steam in its own juices and turn bland and gray instead.) When hot, add the oil and heat until shimmering (adding the oil after the pan is hot keeps it from breaking down and getting smoky while the pan heats). Add the beef and brown on all sides. Transfer meat to a plate or baking sheet and set aside.

3. Reduce heat to medium high. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic to the pot (since they will cook for a few hours, they can be cut into larger pieces); cook until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Adjust the heat to medium and continue cooking until very soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until slightly browned, about 5 minutes (this deepens the tomato flavor. The process is called pincé in French).

4. Lower heat to medium, add flour and mix well with a wooden spoon to make a roux. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir the wine into the roux a little at a time, allowing the roux to absorb the liquid before adding more. (This will help avoid lumps). Be sure to scrape up any browned bits. Return the meat to the pan. Add the bouquet garni and enough stock to rise two-thirds of the way up the meat (the amount will vary with the size and type of pot you are using. But don’t cover the meat entirely. If you use too much liquid or you’ll dilute the flavors. The less liquid, the more concentrated the flavors). Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, cover pot tightly with a lid or aluminum foil, and place on the center rack of the oven. Braise until beef is fork-tender (it should fall right back into the pan when pierced with a two-pronged fork), about 2 hours.

5. If serving immediately, lift the beef out of the pot using tongs or a spatula and keep warm on a plate tented with foil. Strain the sauce through a strainer into another pot (if you like, pick out the carrots and serve alongside the beef, but discard the rest of the solids). Let the sauce sit for a few minutes. Then degrease the sauce by dragging a ladle or spoon over the top of the sauce to catch any fat that has risen and discard. Repeat until most of the fat is removed. If the sauce is too thin, set pot over medium-high heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid reduces and is slightly thicker. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

6. Using a sharp slicing knife, cut the beef across the grain into thick slices and serve with the sauce. (Don’t worry about getting beautiful slices – chunks of this meat are just as delicious.)

7. If making this ahead of time, (it keeps well in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days), remove the meat from pan and let it cool then place it in an airtight container and refrigerate. Strain the sauce into another container and refrigerate (you don’t have to defat it first). One hour before serving, remove the sauce from the refrigerator, scrape off any fat that has congealed on top and discard. Slice the beef and put it in an ovenproof serving dish, pour on the sauce, cover with foil, reheat in a 350°F oven for about 45 minutes, and serve.

Brown Veal Stock

Makes about 3 quarts

Roasting bones gives this stock a richer, deeper flavor and darker color. Don’t worry if you can’t find veal bones. Just use beef and make beef stock. Veal and beef stocks are essentially interchangeable, it’s just the extra collagen in the veal bones that give the stock a little extra body.

4 pounds meaty veal or beef soup bones (preferably with marrow)
1 pound beef short ribs (optional)
Vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs Italian parsley)
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
5 quarts (20 cups) cold water

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a cookie sheet or roasting pan. Place bones in a single layer in pan and place pan in oven. Roast until bones are very brown, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

2. Remove bones from oven and place in a large, heavy 10- to 12-quart stockpot, just big enough to hold the bones.

3. Place the roasting pan used to brown the bones on the stove and add the onions, celery and carrots. Add more oil if necessary. Cook over medium-high heat until the vegetables are caramelized and almost brown. Add the tomato paste and cook until the paste turns dark brown.

4. Pour about a cup of water into the roasting pan to deglaze it and scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Pour the vegetables and liquid into the stockpot with the bones. Add the rest of the water, plus more if necessary to just cover the bones, and the bouquet garni and garlic.

5. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce heat to a low simmer, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Continue to simmer over very low heat, uncovered, for at least 6 hours. (At the restaurant we let the stock simmer on the stove over the lowest heat overnight. I can’t recommend that for home cooks, since every stove is different and the lowest setting on some might actually be high enough to simmer the pot dry by morning. But if you know your stove is capable of going very low, go ahead and simmer the stock overnight and strain it in the morning.)

6. Turn off heat. Use tongs to remove bones from stock and discard (or find a dog to give them to). Pour stock through a fine-mesh strainer set over another large bowl or pot. Let cool before refrigerating or freezing.

Mother’s Smashers

Makes 8 to 10 servings

One of my responsibilities while working at Le Cirque to was to make the purée de pommes de terre, or mashed potatoes. After the potatoes were peeled, cooked, drained and dried (you’ll read about that in my recipe, below), I had to use a rubber spatula to push them through a tamie (a screen framed with wood that sits over a mixing bowl). This was an arduous task. Although the potatoes turned out silky smooth and delicious, I vowed to serve lumpy yet equally delicious “smashers” at my own restaurant. After all, whose mother didn’t serve lumpy potatoes? I chose to leave the skin on not only because I like the added flavor; I didn’t want to have to peel 25 pounds of potatoes every night, either!

You can add all sorts of things to smashers, but these potatoes are so good, they really don’t need other flavorings. Why tamper with perfection?

8 whole large red potatoes, about 3 pounds
1 1/2 cups half-and-half, plus more if necessary
1 1/4 cups (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Scrub the potatoes clean with a vegetable brush under cold running water.

2. Place the whole potatoes in a large (8- to 10-quart) stockpot or Dutch oven and cover with cold water by about 1 inch. Place pot over high heat and bring to a boil (put the lid on the pot to make the water go faster — just make sure you remove it when the water begins to boil or it could boil over). Lower the heat and simmer uncovered until the potatoes are fork-tender (a fork should be able to slide in and out very easily), about 30 minutes (better to slightly overcook than slightly undercook).

3. When the potatoes are tender, drain in a colander set in the sink. Pour the potatoes out in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 8 minutes (to dry out excess moisture), but do not allow them to brown.

4. While the potatoes are drying out, place the butter in a warm spot to soften and the half-and-half in a small saucepan over low heat (adding warm cream to the potatoes will help keep them piping hot).

5. Return potatoes to the cooking pot (pour them into the pot or use tongs—they’re hot!) and smash them with a heavy duty wire whisk or a potato masher (don’t worry if they’re lumpy – that’s what makes them smashers.) Add the butter and warm half-and-half. Add additional half-and-half, if necessary, to achieve a creamy consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 servings

The recipe for this popular Tex-Mex dish came from one of my former sous chefs, Edilberto (Eddie) Rodriguez Jr. He had an excellent way with food, and was one of the few people in my kitchen who made a M.O.M. happen. He nominated his grandmother, Carmelina, as Mother of the Month, researched her recipes, helped put the menu together, and then cooked it for the entire month.

Everything was a delicious. We served Cuban specialties, including empanadas and tostones. This dish however, is Edi’s adaptation of a popular Tex-Mex dish created to use up stale corn tortillas. It’s turned out to be one of my favorite scrambles for a crowd. It holds up well, and you can have condiments like salsa, chipotle sour cream, green onions and diced avocado on hand so guests can customize their brekkie.

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably clarified
3/4 cup finely diced onion (a little less than 1 medium)
3/4 cup finely diced bell peppers (preferably a mixture of green and red)
4 (8-inch) corn tortillas cut into long, narrow strips (1 cup)
12 eggs, beaten
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups shredded Monterey Jack or pepperjack cheese
1/2 cup Chipotle Sour Cream (optional, recipe follows)
1/2 cup homemade salsa (recipe follows), or store-bought
½ cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green part (about 6)

1. Place a large (12- to 14-inch) non-stick sauté pan over medium-high heat for several minutes. Add butter, onions and peppers. Sauté, stirring now and then, for about 2 minutes or until softened. Add tortillas and continue to cook, stirring now and then, until they start to get slightly golden and the onions begin to caramelize, about 3 to 5 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Pour the eggs into the onion-tortilla mixture and cook while stirring occasionally with a heat-proof rubber spatula, until eggs are almost fully cooked but still a little wet (though not runny).

3. Add the jack cheese and stir to combine and finish cooking the eggs (don’t add the cheese too soon it will make the eggs runny).

4. Divide eggs among serving plates and top with a dollop of sour cream, a heaping tablespoon salsa and a sprinkle of green onions. Pass around extra salsa separately.

Salsa

Makes 5 cups

Sure, you could just buy one of the many tubs and bottles of salsa at the store, but the flavor of homemade salsa is so much fresher and brighter. Making it yourself also means you can control the texture – making it as chunky or smooth as you like. This makes more than you’ll need, but it will keep for up to four days in the refrigerator and can be frozen in small containers and defrosted in the refrigerator. Just give it a good whisking before serving.

3 cloves garlic (about 1 tablespoon)
2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeds removed
1/2 red onion, cut into quarters
1 ½ cups fresh tomatoes (about 2 medium), cut into quarters
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained if you prefer a thicker salsa (if you’re not sure, reserve the juice and add it back if desired)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Juice of 1 lime, about 1 tablespoon
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place garlic and chiles in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a medium-sized bowl.

2. Place onions in processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to the bowl with the garlic and peppers.

3. Place fresh tomatoes in processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to the bowl. (If you like a chunkier salsa, dice the tomatoes by hand.)

4. Place canned tomatoes, cilantro and cumin in processor. Pulse once or twice to combine. Transfer to the bowl.

5. Add lime juice to the mixture in the bowl, season with salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning with more lime juice, salt or pepper, if desired (but remember that you may be eating this with something salty, like corn chips!) Freeze extra salsa in pint containers for future use.

Chipotle Sour Cream

½ cup sour cream
¼ teaspoon minced chipotle chile (from canned chipotles en adobo)

In a small bowl, mix together the sour cream and minced chipotle.